June 16th, 2018

Before her illustrious career as a sommelier and acclaimed author, Kelli A. White was a very straight-and-narrow kind of kid. She had a gift for math and science and won a Howard Hughes Fellowship in Neurogenetics while at Brandeis. As fate would have it, Kelli’s life was about to change dramatically.

Using some leftover grant money, Kelli took a trip to France. As with many great stories, this is where everything began to shift. The richness of France's food, the depth of its culture, and its slower pace of life immediately captivated her. When she returned, Kelli wanted a way into the world of wine and took a part-time job at a wine store. Kelli says, “Being a high-strung person, wine’s soothing effect suited me well.”

Her rise to becoming a top sommelier was cemented during her years at New York City’s Veritas, where she was the first female sommelier in over a decade, helping navigate one of the world’s most renowned wine lists.

In 2010, amid the economic downturn, Kelli and her partner Scott decided to move to California wine country. The serenity of Napa offered the perfect backdrop for their dream of producing wine, following years in the intense New York restaurant scene. Around the same time, investor Leslie Rudd was seeking to revamp the wine list at his acclaimed PRESS restaurant in St. Helena. The stars aligned—Kelli and Scott were hired and went on to create the internationally celebrated PRESS wine list, a Napa-focused selection that rivaled the great European cellars. Scott continues to serve as Wine Director there, sharing his deep expertise.

As collaborative as Napa is, it didn’t take long for Kelli and Scott to pursue winemaking. In 2011, while Kelli was shaping PRESS into one of America’s deepest Napa Valley wine lists, the couple launched their wine brand, Houndstooth.

Their first vineyard, Poseidon Vineyard, lies where Carneros Creek meets the Napa River, near the northern edge of San Pablo Bay. The location benefits from salty river tides, fog from the Petaluma Gap, and an ideal mix of clay and gravel soils—perfect conditions for a labor of love.

Their debut vintage was a Pinot Noir in 2011, followed by Chardonnay in 2012, and Barbera by 2014. Every bottle from Houndstooth reflects a passion for wine rooted in personal experience and craftsmanship.

Kelli’s journey mirrors the evolution of Napa itself. As her palate and goals have evolved, so has the valley. Today, producers experiment with ancient methods—fermenting in redwood, using concrete amphoras—and rediscovering forgotten varietals. Kelli has become so integral to the valley that it’s hard to tell whether she is changing Napa or Napa is changing her.

Kelli believes some regions remain underappreciated. In her eyes, hidden gems can be found in Paso Robles, Santa Ynez Valley, and even the Finger Lakes region in New York.

On a personal note, she favors Branda Sauvignon Blanc.

And her favorite pairing? Surprisingly, it’s a gin & tonic with salty popcorn—a whimsical match that might just catch on.

To those new to wine, Kelli offers straightforward advice: Find a sommelier who is direct. Start within your comfort zone—perhaps with wines by the glass. Visit wine shops with experienced staff who can guide you. Build relationships with knowledgeable drinkers and listen to their insights.

Kelli maintains a balanced perspective on the natural wine trend. While “natural” wines are in vogue, she believes the term is often overhyped. Like all wine categories, it contains both hits and misses.

She says, “A skilled sommelier’s job is to get a guest to try something new without seeming condescending. Ninety-five percent of our job is reading between the lines—suggesting something they’ll enjoy and be happy with.”

This is easier with adventurous younger drinkers, who are more open to trying unfamiliar styles. Perhaps we can all take a cue from them—embracing new experiences guided by passionate experts.

In 2013, Kelli was named one of Food & Wine’s top ten sommeliers in the U.S. Today, she writes for GuildSomm, an international nonprofit for sommeliers. Her work there upholds the values of integrity, humility, and hospitality. Her articles offer sharp, often underexplored insights—like her coverage of Valencia’s outstanding wines, which may inspire you to revisit Spanish selections.

Her book, Napa Valley, Then & Now, released in 2015, received widespread acclaim, winning the IACP award for Best New Wine, Beer, or Spirits Book and a Graphis design award. In 2016, she was nominated for the prestigious Roederer Award for Best Emerging Wine Writer.

In one word, what does wine mean to Kelli A. White?
Education.

“If you stop learning, you get bored. The world of wine is reborn every year, so it can never get boring!”

A hearty Salud! to the thirst for knowledge.