November 2, 2017


I first met David Biraud in Portugal, at Dirk Niepoort’s vineyard—a fitting setting for a man whose life is defined by exceptional wine and refined taste. From the start, it was clear that David carries not just knowledge, but a passion that resonates with every bottle he uncorks.

When we look back on our time with wine, most of us hope to see a life well-lived and vintages well-tasted—leaving no curious bottle uncorked. David Biraud may have the edge on us here. As one of the top three sommeliers in the world, David has uncorked many a bottle—with many more yet to come.

When we look back on our time with wine, most of us hope to see a life well-lived and vintages well-tasted—leaving no curious bottle uncorked. David Biraud may have the edge on us here. As one of the top three sommeliers in the world, David has uncorked many a bottle—with many more yet to come.

His impressive résumé speaks for itself: a list of achievements and awards dating back to 1998, when David received the Ruinart Trophy for Best Young Sommelier of France. Just four years later, in 2002, he was named Best Sommelier of France. Over the past decade, David has been respected as one of the foremost sommeliers in the industry, and in 2017, he was recognized among the top three sommeliers in the world.

But where did it all begin? When asked how he became interested in wine, David admits he knew very little about the world of wine until 1987, when he started catering school with the goal of becoming a chef. As part of the curriculum, he studied oenology, and the spark that was lit then has burned brightly ever since.

David now blends his passion for wine and cuisine as the manager of Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx, in the heart of Paris. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant serves as the creative stage for Chef Thierry Marx’s fusion of emotion and technical mastery. The menu is a symphony of innovative and seasonal flavors, paired with an expansive, thoughtfully curated wine list.

To David, the success of a wine menu lies not in its size but in its diversity. We couldn’t agree more. The wine list at Sur Mesure spans a global range of regions, offering guests the chance to taste the distinctiveness of each terroir. Even more impressive, Sur Mesure offers many exceptional wines by the glass—about a dozen each of red and white, and over 20 sweet wines.

When asked about the most common pairings at Sur Mesure, David’s descriptions are mouthwatering. The soybean risotto with oysters and cep mushrooms is often matched with a Junmai Daiginjo sake from Japan. The Wagyu beef, charred to perfection with a hint of licorice, is a sublime companion to a Côte Rôtie by Jamet. And the foie gras with smoked eel and apples cooked in red wine sings alongside a 20-year-old medium-dry Boal Madeira. The words alone are enough to stir the appetite, but the real-life flavor combinations are extraordinary.

David also challenges the notion that red wines are inherently superior or more diverse than white wines. He praises Chenin Blanc from the Anjou/Saumur region as one of the most underrated varietals—a reminder to let your palate decide.

For David, the most rewarding part of his work is the connection between sommelier and guest: listening deeply to a client’s tastes and curating a personalized pairing—and then seeing their delight at the first sip. C’est magnifique.

And when he’s not recommending refined pairings, what does David enjoy himself? His most memorable meal was stuffed pigeon with foie gras and Taggiasca olives, served with pigeon jus and crispy potatoes, paired with a 1991 Côte Rôtie by Jamet. Outside of wine, he also appreciates a fine glass of port, cognac, or Armagnac.

If David Biraud had to sum up wine in a single word, it would be passion—and it’s the same word we’d use to describe his remarkable career. From every cork pulled to every glass poured, David’s passion is unmistakable. We eagerly await what the future holds for him and the brilliant team at Sur Mesure.