Luis Pato (which is Portuguese for ‘duck’) is the best-known producer in the Bairrada region. He’s widely regarded as the modernizer who brought a struggling region back to life, but I think it’s unfair to see him just in this light, because his wines have a traditional side to them, and he’s also a champion of the local red grape, Baga.

Luis Pato has three daughters, and one of them, Filipa, is now a well known winemaker in her own right. She shares the winery with her father, but makes a quite separate range of wines from both Bairrada and Dão regions, as well as some wines with her husband, William Wouters (she married in summer 2008).